Yesterday I went with a couple friends to find a museum downtown and go to the Grand Bazaar to pick up some souvenirs. Unfortunately, we couldn't find the museum; we decided we had been using an outdated map and the museum has since been relocated since no one in the area had any idea what we were talking about.
The Grand Bazaar was crazy as always; it gets a little overwhelming in there with everyone shouting at you since you look so foreign. But on the way back, we stopped at a cafe run by a Canadian expat and had some real French toast North American style. It was great to taste some "American" food, and the cafe was really cozy, the kind of place I'd go to even at home.
Today was one of my favorite days in Turkey. Some friends and I got invited to an engagement ceremony; our Turkish conversation tutor asked us to come as a cultural experience. It was in a very non-touristy part of Istanbul, somewhere we'd never go on our own. At first it was kind of awkward since we didn't know anyone and couldn't really communicate; since it was our friend's sister's engagement, he had to help out and couldn't translate all the time. But the actual ceremony was really cool-- the parents were the ones who agreed to the engagement, then all the relatives came by and gave the couple gifts; gold bracelets, necklaces, earrings, and pinned some coins and cash on white sashes they had put around their necks. Our friend later explained it's a way to show how happy you are for the marriage, to show that it's important. After a cup of Turkish coffee and an awesome dinner (meat and eggplant, borek, and cake), we sat with the family while they opened the gifts from the bride's family. Apparently the gifts are a way to make the families closer together; the mother got a headscarf and some linens, for example. Our friend's mother also gave us gifts-- I got a really nice pair of homemade Turkish slippers! (Don't worry, Mom, we made sure to bring them flowers).
Afterwards we went to a cafe that had a great view of Istanbul and drank tea and talked some more about the evening, the differences between Turkey and the US, and Turkey in general. It was a long but fantastic day!
I don't have any pictures now-- I thought it would be a bit awkward to take them at a stranger's engagement. The family insisted we get a picture with the bride and groom, though, so hopefully I'll get a copy!
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Saturday, May 21, 2011
No travels this weekend...
I've been wanting to get to the Black Sea for some time-- it's quite close to campus, you can actually see it from the top of my dorm on a nice day. But this is the first week the weather's been decent and I've been swamped with finals. Weather on the Black Sea is notoriously bad as well, which I feel I just proved today with this set of pictures.
This was the weather on campus this afternoon-- gorgeous blue skies, sun-- I studied outside and got some new freckles.
This is a photo of the sea taken within seconds of the first one-- crazy!
But anyway, I'll be sure to make it out there before I leave, and I'll make sure to tell you all how it goes.
This was the weather on campus this afternoon-- gorgeous blue skies, sun-- I studied outside and got some new freckles.
This is a photo of the sea taken within seconds of the first one-- crazy!
But anyway, I'll be sure to make it out there before I leave, and I'll make sure to tell you all how it goes.
Friday, May 20, 2011
My first earthquake
Last night I was studying in my bed when the room started shaking. I thought the girls upstairs were jumping on their bed or something, but it turns out, it was a magnitude 5.9 earthquake. It originated several hundred miles away, so there was no damage in Istanbul, but it was still pretty exciting. I guess that's one more event to cross off my natural disaster bingo card!
Here's some more information about the quake if you're interested-- obviously a 5.9 quake is pretty severe so there was a lot of damage in the town and surrounding province.
http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/n.php?n=5.9-magnitude-earthquake-rocks-western-turkey-2011-05-19
(The Hurrityet is one of the most prominent newspapers in the country, in case you don't recognize the name.)
Here's some more information about the quake if you're interested-- obviously a 5.9 quake is pretty severe so there was a lot of damage in the town and surrounding province.
http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/n.php?n=5.9-magnitude-earthquake-rocks-western-turkey-2011-05-19
(The Hurrityet is one of the most prominent newspapers in the country, in case you don't recognize the name.)
Thursday, May 19, 2011
National Holiday!
We didn't have school today because it's a national holiday. The thing is, it's been a bit difficult determining what Turkey is actually celebrating. It's officially "Children and Sports Day," since Turkey ties all it's national holidays to children because Atatürk once said that children are the future and therefore the most important. Anyway, Atatürk also said that he felt like 19 May was his birthday, but it probably isn't actually since his true birthday is unknown. No, the real noteworthy event is it was the date Atatürk landed in Anatolia to begin the Revolution and establish the Turkish Republic of today.
I did go down to town today, but it seems that celebrations consist mainly of hanging flags everywhere there's space. They're quite patriotic over here!
I did go down to town today, but it seems that celebrations consist mainly of hanging flags everywhere there's space. They're quite patriotic over here!
Tuesday, May 17, 2011
Catching up on pictures
View from Rumelli Kalesi
More Rumelli
I'm sure you're all tired of pictures of Byzantine ruins by now...
Me at the Galata Tower-- look at the view!
Sunday, May 15, 2011
My First Football Match!
I traveled to Taksim with some friends today to see a soccer match. We went more for the experience than the match itself; we chose this game because tickets cost only 10 TL ($6-$7).
Security was very tight at the stadium. We all got patted down twice before entering, and had dangerous objects like water bottles, pens, and coins confiscated, supposedly so we couldn't throw anything during the match. I had brought my big re-usable water bottle which the security officers were nice enough to let me keep; they just made me promise I wouldn't throw it at anyone. Later, we found out that the tension was because the fans of one of the teams, Bursa, had been banned from attending ten straight matches because they had started a big fight at another stadium in the city. Though the fans weren't supposed to be at the game, officials weren't taking any chances.
Since we couldn't support Bursa, we were rooting for Kasimpaşa. Unfortunately, our team lost, but the fans we were sitting near didn't seem too upset. They cheered, chanted, and sang through the whole match regardless of what was going on on the pitch, which certainly made the game more entertaining for us!
Halfway through the match, the nearby mosques (there were four that I could see) started sounding the call to prayer, the song broadcasted from the minarets five times a day here. I had expected a pause while the call finished, but the game progressed unhampered. The call made an interesting backdrop for the game, every movement was much more dramatic.
The one downside of the game was the distance-- everything is so far away from school, especially since traffic in Istanbul is always terrible. But the game, dinner, and dessert at a local cafe was definitely worth it, especially since I had left my homework behind and got to chat the whole way down and back.
I don't have any pictures of the match, but I'll try to post some once my friends have put them on Facebook.
Security was very tight at the stadium. We all got patted down twice before entering, and had dangerous objects like water bottles, pens, and coins confiscated, supposedly so we couldn't throw anything during the match. I had brought my big re-usable water bottle which the security officers were nice enough to let me keep; they just made me promise I wouldn't throw it at anyone. Later, we found out that the tension was because the fans of one of the teams, Bursa, had been banned from attending ten straight matches because they had started a big fight at another stadium in the city. Though the fans weren't supposed to be at the game, officials weren't taking any chances.
Since we couldn't support Bursa, we were rooting for Kasimpaşa. Unfortunately, our team lost, but the fans we were sitting near didn't seem too upset. They cheered, chanted, and sang through the whole match regardless of what was going on on the pitch, which certainly made the game more entertaining for us!
Halfway through the match, the nearby mosques (there were four that I could see) started sounding the call to prayer, the song broadcasted from the minarets five times a day here. I had expected a pause while the call finished, but the game progressed unhampered. The call made an interesting backdrop for the game, every movement was much more dramatic.
The one downside of the game was the distance-- everything is so far away from school, especially since traffic in Istanbul is always terrible. But the game, dinner, and dessert at a local cafe was definitely worth it, especially since I had left my homework behind and got to chat the whole way down and back.
I don't have any pictures of the match, but I'll try to post some once my friends have put them on Facebook.
Saturday, May 14, 2011
Rumelli Fort, Galata Tower, and Meyhane
Yesterday I had a bit of an adventure with some of my exchange friends. We went to Rumelli fortress, an old Byzantine fort on the Bosporus. (Sorry if you get tired of hearing about Byzantine forts, they have tons of them over here.) It had gorgeous views and we did some good climbing (on stairs, not anything too dangerous or dramatic).
Later that afternoon we went to the famous Galata Tower, once used as a watchtower in old Constantinople. Now it has great views-- you can see the whole old city-- though it was a little hazy because of the pollution.
To finish out the day, we went to a meyhane, or a traditional Turkish tavern. We ordered a bunch of appetizers and passed the plate around. I had oysters for the first time and even tried a bite of tongue, though I wasn't brave enough to taste the lamb's brain.
All in all it was a great day, if a little touristy. Since we're getting towards the end of the semester we're all feeling like we need to cram in all the things we always wanted to see before we leave, and I definitely checked a bunch of my mental checklist yesterday. Pictures to follow!
Later that afternoon we went to the famous Galata Tower, once used as a watchtower in old Constantinople. Now it has great views-- you can see the whole old city-- though it was a little hazy because of the pollution.
To finish out the day, we went to a meyhane, or a traditional Turkish tavern. We ordered a bunch of appetizers and passed the plate around. I had oysters for the first time and even tried a bite of tongue, though I wasn't brave enough to taste the lamb's brain.
All in all it was a great day, if a little touristy. Since we're getting towards the end of the semester we're all feeling like we need to cram in all the things we always wanted to see before we leave, and I definitely checked a bunch of my mental checklist yesterday. Pictures to follow!
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Symposium on Least Developed Countries
Last week I volunteered to work at a symposium on the world's Least Developed Countries. The promise of attendance to the panels and a free lunch was enough to entice me to travel the 1.5 hour by bus and subway to the hotel it was being held; by the time I found out I had to be there at 8 AM, it was too late to back out.
I spent much of the day standing in the lobby shepherding interesting-looking guests to the interesting-sounding forums about development upstairs, wishing I was somewhere near a chair. I did get to go to a panel about South-South cooperation in the afternoon, however-- I won't bore you with the details but I thought it was great.
Lunch was also fantastic, almost worth the whole trip-- spring rolls, kebabs, and eclairs. Fantastic.
I also saw the President of Bangladesh-- I guess he went to one of the panels I missed, but he walked through the lobby on his way out. Now how many of you can say you've been within a dozen feet of the president of a small nation on the Indian subcontinent?
Finally, I'd like to thank Starbucks for unofficially sponsoring my early morning travels. Couldn't have done it without you!
I spent much of the day standing in the lobby shepherding interesting-looking guests to the interesting-sounding forums about development upstairs, wishing I was somewhere near a chair. I did get to go to a panel about South-South cooperation in the afternoon, however-- I won't bore you with the details but I thought it was great.
Lunch was also fantastic, almost worth the whole trip-- spring rolls, kebabs, and eclairs. Fantastic.
I also saw the President of Bangladesh-- I guess he went to one of the panels I missed, but he walked through the lobby on his way out. Now how many of you can say you've been within a dozen feet of the president of a small nation on the Indian subcontinent?
Finally, I'd like to thank Starbucks for unofficially sponsoring my early morning travels. Couldn't have done it without you!
Monday, May 9, 2011
Some things never change...
On my way back from studying in a friend's room tonight, I saw the two campus dogs corner one of the campus cats. Even though they're all free-roaming in true Turkish style, their animosity remained. Just as I've seen in a million comic strips in the States, the cat ran up a tree while the dogs barked from the bottom. Even though they're "kedi" and köpek here, they still fight like cats and dogs.
Saturday, May 7, 2011
My Struggle with Mein Kampf
One of the classes I'm taking this semester is about the history of political thought; we've been studying the progression of thinkers from Plato to the present day. For my term paper, I have to write a comparison of the philosophies of Hitler and Stalin-- I chose the topic because I thought it would be a way to brush up on my history and would be interesting enough to spend some time writing.
As a result, I've spent the weekend reading Mein Kampf, Hitler's book about his life and political philosophy. (I'm not planning on reading the whole thing, since it's upwards of seven hundred pages, but just the sections related to political thought). I thought there would be entire sections where Hitler described his world view and ideal political state without reference to race-- where he spoke about the purpose of the state, for example, or perhaps the rights of citizens. This has proven not to be the case. I've been cringing as I'm taking notes; some of the things he wrote were so repugnant I don't even want to write them down. Yet as he describes the formation of the Nazi party, I'm struck by Hitler's perception of how best to manipulate the masses. It's all there-- gauging your audience and adjusting your speech accordingly, making sure your supporters gather in groups to form a sense of community. I'm only now fully realizing what a perfect storm Nazi Germany was.
Sorry for the non-Turkey related update, but I've been holed up doing this paper so there's not a whole lot of culture to report back. But soon, with any luck!
As a result, I've spent the weekend reading Mein Kampf, Hitler's book about his life and political philosophy. (I'm not planning on reading the whole thing, since it's upwards of seven hundred pages, but just the sections related to political thought). I thought there would be entire sections where Hitler described his world view and ideal political state without reference to race-- where he spoke about the purpose of the state, for example, or perhaps the rights of citizens. This has proven not to be the case. I've been cringing as I'm taking notes; some of the things he wrote were so repugnant I don't even want to write them down. Yet as he describes the formation of the Nazi party, I'm struck by Hitler's perception of how best to manipulate the masses. It's all there-- gauging your audience and adjusting your speech accordingly, making sure your supporters gather in groups to form a sense of community. I'm only now fully realizing what a perfect storm Nazi Germany was.
Sorry for the non-Turkey related update, but I've been holed up doing this paper so there's not a whole lot of culture to report back. But soon, with any luck!
Friday, May 6, 2011
Dance Festival
Besides Mom's visit, the other reason I've been so busy is the modern dance group I'm in. This week was the school's dance festival, and we've been having extra rehearsals for the three performances we had this week.
The shows were crazy-- it was great to have a chance to watch the other groups, some of which came from other schools. I never knew there were Turks who could tango!
I also loved getting back into dance again; as I told you all a couple months ago when the group started rehearsing, I had forgotten how much I love dancing. But even more than that, it's been a great way to get to know Turkish students. We exchange students tend to keep to ourselves here, partly due to the language barrier and partly due to diverging interests-- foreign students travel around way more often, which Turkish students tend not to do. But through rehearsals, shopping for costumes, and traveling to our teacher's studio we've all gotten to know each other. Though modern dance is hardly unique to Turkey, I definitely think joining the group has helped me experience a new side of Turkish culture.
I think some of my friends took photos and video of the show, I'll try to post them as soon as I have access to them.
The shows were crazy-- it was great to have a chance to watch the other groups, some of which came from other schools. I never knew there were Turks who could tango!
I also loved getting back into dance again; as I told you all a couple months ago when the group started rehearsing, I had forgotten how much I love dancing. But even more than that, it's been a great way to get to know Turkish students. We exchange students tend to keep to ourselves here, partly due to the language barrier and partly due to diverging interests-- foreign students travel around way more often, which Turkish students tend not to do. But through rehearsals, shopping for costumes, and traveling to our teacher's studio we've all gotten to know each other. Though modern dance is hardly unique to Turkey, I definitely think joining the group has helped me experience a new side of Turkish culture.
I think some of my friends took photos and video of the show, I'll try to post them as soon as I have access to them.
Thursday, May 5, 2011
Catching up
Sorry for the extended hiatus, it's been a busy couple of weeks! As many of you probably know, my mom came out here to visit, and between classes, dance rehearsals, and commuting to her hotel I never quite found time to update. So let me fill you in:
The first weekend Mom was in town we did a lot of hanging out-- finding cafes, getting her orientated and able to navigate Istanbul by herself. She's got a lot of great stories from the week when she went to museums and things by herself; she even had a traditional meal with a Turkish family, something I have yet to do here.
On Thursday, I skipped school and we went off to Bodrum, which literally means "basement" in Turkish-- it's in the south of the country, on the Mediterranean coast. It's a gorgeous area-- rolling hills and long stretches of beaches. We spent a lot of time walking around (including the time we got lost and wandered for almost two hours before giving in and finding a cab).
We also took a ferry to Kos, a nearby Greek island. After all, we've got to fill up our passports! The town of Kos is pretty, but very cute and small enough to walk around in. We also had the chance to visit an old Byzantine castle that was completely overgrown with wildflowers-- completely gorgeous against the backdrop of the Mediterranean. Other highlights include seeing an enormous old tree Hippocrates supposedly taught under, taking the mini train (think second-rate amusement park) around town, and sticking our toes in the chilly ocean.
All in all it was a fantastic week! Here are some pictures, and expect more detailed stories in the near future.
Byzantine Castle on the Greek island-- it looks just like a postcard!
More flowers and castle
Happy Mom on the ferry to Greece
Mom and her new Turkish baby! OK, kidding-- this is her host family's baby from her dinner experience. But what a cutie!
The first weekend Mom was in town we did a lot of hanging out-- finding cafes, getting her orientated and able to navigate Istanbul by herself. She's got a lot of great stories from the week when she went to museums and things by herself; she even had a traditional meal with a Turkish family, something I have yet to do here.
On Thursday, I skipped school and we went off to Bodrum, which literally means "basement" in Turkish-- it's in the south of the country, on the Mediterranean coast. It's a gorgeous area-- rolling hills and long stretches of beaches. We spent a lot of time walking around (including the time we got lost and wandered for almost two hours before giving in and finding a cab).
We also took a ferry to Kos, a nearby Greek island. After all, we've got to fill up our passports! The town of Kos is pretty, but very cute and small enough to walk around in. We also had the chance to visit an old Byzantine castle that was completely overgrown with wildflowers-- completely gorgeous against the backdrop of the Mediterranean. Other highlights include seeing an enormous old tree Hippocrates supposedly taught under, taking the mini train (think second-rate amusement park) around town, and sticking our toes in the chilly ocean.
All in all it was a fantastic week! Here are some pictures, and expect more detailed stories in the near future.
Byzantine Castle on the Greek island-- it looks just like a postcard!
More flowers and castle
Happy Mom on the ferry to Greece
Mom and her new Turkish baby! OK, kidding-- this is her host family's baby from her dinner experience. But what a cutie!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)